As I participated in various radio events this past winter I thought about a safety issue common in budget and homebrew transmitters prior to about 1960. Many, if not most, of these transmitters used cathode keying with no regulation of the screen voltage. In these transmitters it is common to find over 100 volts across the key terminals. I measure 125 VDC at my Johnson Adventurer key terminals. Some of my friends checked their 1929 homebrew transmitters. They found as much as 191 VDC at the key terminals. All of these are basic one or two tube cathode keyed transmitters, the sort of transmitters used by many today to experience vintage tube gear.
What can be done about the high voltage at the key terminals?
- Keep your fingers off the key terminals: I've been doing this up to now. It usually works but my wife worries that it does not always work. It also follows the "If it hurts don't do it" rule.
- Covered Key Terminals: Several military keys and even some bugs are available that hide the terminals. This is a workable low tech solution but you have to find a suitable key or bug. One option today is the Bencher RJ-1 sold by Vibroplex ( http://www.vibroplex.com/contents/en-us/p202.html ).
- Mechanical Relay: Use your key or bug to operate a relay that is actually keying the rig. I've never tried this but it appears that speed may be an issue. How well does the relay keep up?
- Electronic Isolator/relay: I used a "Keyall HV" from Jackson Harbor Press / WB9KZY. The Keyall HV includes an opto-isolator and MOSFETs rated for 1000V at 3 Amps. Besides low voltage at the key terminals it is also low current so it can be used to interface a modern keyer to the heaviest of our cathode keyed boat anchors. See http://wb9kzy.com/keyallhv.htm for details.
The Keyall HV kit includes five parts and a small printed circuit card. This kit is just about as simple as one can get. Instructions are on the Jackson Harbor Press website.
I used a small aluminum utility box for my keyall housing. I could have used a smaller box but the only two battery battery holder I had was for type C flashlight batteries. The batteries needed all of the available width. I used a barrier strip for the transmitter connection because some transmitters do not have one side of the key connection grounded.
The Keyall HV interface sits in-line between my key and the transmitter. The key terminals now have less than 3 volts between them. The two C cells should be good for over 500 hours of key down time.
Showing posts with label Keyall. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Keyall. Show all posts
Monday, April 23, 2018
Monday, October 14, 2013
Boots for a KX3
I finally got the relay box finished so that I can use my grounded grid 572B amplifier with my KX3. On receive it bypasses the amplifier and delivers -100VDC cutoff bias. On transmit the 572B grid is grounded and the KX3 output is routed through the amplifier.Lacking a triple pole-double throw relay I used a double pole-double throw relay to transfer the antenna and a single pole-double throw relay to switch the cutoff grid bias. The two relays run off of 12 VDC but together require about 1/2 amp, way more than the KX3 Keyline Out line can handle. A "Keyall" board from Jackson Harbor Press/WB9KZY solved that problem. Ideally I would have used a single transformer that delivered 12VAC and 100VAC for the two supplies. Lacking the ideal I used back to back 12V transformers. One toggle switch was added to allow manual send/receive control without the Keyline Out signal from my KX3. Another toggle switch was needed to power on/off the 12V/100V power supply.
When I use the relay box and my amp, the KX3 antenna tuner has to stay in the circuit in order to match the transceiver to the uncontrolled input impedance of the amplifier. In addition the antenna relay can not follow break-in CW keying without losing the first dit so I must use the KX3 in PTT mode. On the plus side I run about 80 watts to the antenna instead of 4, maybe not a big deal for CW but real help for SSB.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
An Iambic keyer rated for cathode keying

When using my vintage transmitters I've missed not having a keyer. Many older tube transmitters are cathode keyed. The voltage across the key terminals can be high enough to fry the output transistor of a typical modern keyer. In some cases the voltage can even be high enough to be a safety problem.
I already had a K1EL K10 keyer board ( http://k1el.tripod.com/K10.html ). I added a Keyall from Jackson Harbor Press ( http://wb9kzy.com/keyallhv.htm ) to make a keyer capable of keying up to 500V. It works great! I even installed a jack for a straight key so that I use the K10 CW monitor plus the Keyall isolator on Straight Key Night.
Labels:
K1EL keyer,
Keyall,
Keying HV,
Keys and Bugs and Paddles
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